Knit Pencil Cloth

I saw a crocheted pencil cloth and attempted to make it. I'm a very beginner crocheter and the whole double crochet into the back/front post thing had me a little confused and my pencil ended up with very uneven lines. Not at all like it should have looked. So I decided to whip up a knit version. And now I share with you all what I did.

Supplies needed:
Scrap of black worsted weight cotton (aprx 5 yards),
small amounts of tan, grey and pink (aprox 8 yards each),
yellow (aprox 25 yards).
Size 7 needles

KFB= Knit into the front and back of the stitch, increasing 1
k= knit
p= purl
yo= yarn over
s1= Slip one

Finished size is aprx 9" long and 6.5" wide. You can make it longer if you want.

With black: Cast on 2.
Kfb 2x (4 stitches)
k1, yo, k2,yo, k1 (6 sts)
slip 1, p5 - work yarn overs thru the back loop
s1, yo, k4, yo, k1 (8)
s1, p7
s1, yo, k6, yo, k1 (10)
s1, p9

Switch to tan color (exposed wood color)
k1, yo, k8, yo, k1 (12)
s1, p to end
*s1, yo, k to last stitch, yo, k1
s1, p to end*

repeat from * to * until you have 22 sts.

Switch to yellow color (pencil color)
k1, yo, k to last stitch, yo, k1 (24 sts)
s1, p to end
s1, yo, k11, m1, k11, yo, k1 (27)
s1, p3, k1, p5, k1, p5, k1, p5, k1, p4
*s1, k3, (p1, k5) 3x, p1, k4
s1, p3, (k1, p5) 3x, k1, p4*

repeat from * to * until work measures about 7” from cast on OR 2” short of your desired length.

Switch to grey color
Knit garter stitch for 1 inch, still slipping the first stitch in each row.

Switch to pink (eraser color)
Knit stockinette stitch for 1 inch, slipping the first stitch in each row.

Bind off, weave in ends. Block for best results. You can see it's mainly stockinette stitch, so it's inclined to curl some and I didn't lay it very well when I snapped the photo.

Here is a printable version. :)

Stripey Sleepy Sack

As of February 8th, 2011, you can now view and download the pattern from google. Click here for the pattern.



You will need:

*Any worsted weight yarn in at least 3 colors. About 400 yards total.
*Size 10.5 cable needle (20" length) and 10.5 DPN
*Tapestry needle


Abv:
k = knit
p = purl
k2tog = knit 2 together as one (decrease 1 stitch)
st(s) = stitch(es)

Gauge=17 sts & 20 rows = 4 inch square when holding 2 strands of yarn together.



Cast on 68. Join in round.

(Non-working yarn is carried up.)

In MC
Rounds 1-6: k2, p2 ribbing (1.5”)

Pattern as follow:
CC1 Round 1-3: knit

CC2 Round 4: knit
Round 5: purl
Round 6: knit
Round 7: purl
Round 8: knit

CC1 Round 9-11: knit

MC1 Round 12-13: knit
Round 14-15: purl
Round 16-17: knit

Alternate CC1 and CC2 in each pattern set.

Here is what we have so far:


So after the first round, the second round would look like this:

CC2 Round 1-3: knit

CC1 Round 4: knit
Round 5: purl
Round 6: knit
Round 7: purl
Round 8: knit

CC2 Round 9-11: knit

MC1 Round 12-13: knit
Round 14-15: purl
Round 16-17: knit

Now just repeat the pattern rounds 4 more times (6 times total). Your sack should be about 23" long. Then begin decrease pattern.

Decrease pattern:
Round 1-3: knit

(Switch color) Round 4: k3, (k2tog, k7)2x, (k2tog, k6)3x, (k2tog, k7)2x, k2tog, k3 (60 sts remain)
Round 5: purl
Round 6: k3, (k2tog, k6)2x, (k2tog, k5)3x, (k2tog, k6)2x, k2tog, k3 (52)
Round 7: purl
Round 8: k2, (k2tog, k5)2x, (k2tog, k4)3x, (k2tog, k5)2x, k2tog, k2 (44)

(Switch color) Round 9: knit
Round 10: k2, (k2tog, k4)2x, (k2tog, k3)3x, (k2tog, k4)2x, k2tog, k1 (36)
Round 11: knit

(Switch color) Round 12: k1, (k2tog, k3)2x, (k2tog, k2)3x, (k2tog, k3)2x, k2tog, k1 (28)
Round 13: knit
Round 14: (k2, k2tog)7x (21)
Round 15: knit
Round 16: (k1, k2tog)7x (14)
Round 17: (k2tog)7x (7)

Here is what the bottom will look like:


Break yarn, weave through live stitches, weave in ends. Stick baby in and cuddle!


All my patterns are free, but if you love 'em, you can always send your appreciation. =)

Or consider donating to The Alzheimer's Association.

Rippled Baby Hat (and blanket)

As of February 8th, 2011, you can now view and download the pattern from google. Click here for the pattern.



I recently finished the Rippled Baby Blanket and decided it was so wonderful that it needed a hat to match.

I didn't have internet access or any hat patterns printed out. So I was left to my own devices. I jotted down some notes and dove in. It turned out cute, but not nearly as cute as I had intended. ha!

So in case you are wondering, here is the pattern for the Rippled Baby Hat:

Abbreviations:
k: knit
p: purl
m1: Make one away. Increases one stitch. Knittinghelp.com has a great video on how to do this in case you're wondering.
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together as one. Decreases one stitch.
MC: main color
CC: coordinating color
*: repeat from * to end
st(s): stitch(es)
kfb: knit into front of the stitch and into the back, creating 1 new stitch
ssk: slip 2 knit wise, return to left needle, then knit the 2 slipped stitches together

Using main color cast on 8. (I suggest using Emily Ocker's Circular Cast-On)

You will be switching colors on every odd (knit) row. You can carry the yarn up on the inside.

Row 1: knit
Row 2: *k1, m1 (16 sts)
Row 3: (cc) knit
Row 4: *p1, m1, p1 (24 sts)
Row 5: (mc) knit
Row 6: *p1, m1, p2 (32 sts)
Row 7: (cc) knit
Row 8: *k1, m1, k3 (40 sts)
Row 9: (mc) knit
Row 10: *p1, m1, p4 (48 sts)
Row 11: (cc) knit
Row 12: *p1, m1, p5 (56 sts)
Row 13: (mc) knit
Row 14: *k1, m1, k6 (64 sts)
Row 15: (cc) k1, m1, k63 (65 sts)
Row 16: purl
Row 17: (mc) knit
Row 18: purl
Row 19: (cc) *k2tog twice, k1, (m1, k1) 4 times, k2tog twice (worked over 13 sts)
Row 20: knit

Then work pattern as follows 3-4 times (3x will give you a hat about 5.5 inches long):

Row 1: knit
Row 2: purl
Row 3: knit
Row 4: purl
Row 5: *k2tog twice, k1, (m1, k1) 4 times, k2tog twice
Row 6: knit

Bind off with Jeny's Suprisingly Stretchy Bind Off


For the flower petal (make 5):

Cast on 5.
Row 1: knit
Row 2: kfb, k2, kfb, k1 (7 sts)
Row 3: kfb, k4, kfb, k1 (9 sts)
Row 4-6: knit
Row 7: ssk, k to last 2, k2tog (7 sts)
Row 8: knit
Row 9: ssk, k to last 2, k2tog (5 sts)
Row 10: knit
Row 11: k1, slip 2 as to knit, k1, pass 2 slipped stitches over, k1 (3 sts)
Bind off.

Flower center: Cast on 20, bind off. Roll into circle.

Then you just need to arrange the petals the way you like them and attach them to the hat however you prefer. And then once the petals are on there, roll the flower center into a circle and attach that. =)


All my patterns are free, but if you love 'em, you can always send your appreciation. =)

Or consider donating to The Alzheimer's Association.

Mom's Day

So I haven't a clue what to do for mother's day. My DH's mom....clueless. I got a card in the mail for her. Got a card for my mom...will give to her either today or tomorrow since she's leaving town on Sunday.

But now, my DH's step-mom....well, not only does she get a card. I just so happen to know that she loves hearts and purple. And bonus, I had purple yarn in my stash. So I whipped up a couple dishcloths. I know, I know...who wants dishcloths for Mother's Day? Probably no one. But hey, we're tight on cash and well...I got no excuses....

FTR: Dear step-MIL isn't loved anymore...I just have no idea about the other MIL or my mom.

So with that I leave you with purple heart dishcloths.

First up, we have 2 heart-shaped. One simple garter stitch and the second is a stockinette stitch with a garter stitch boarder.


Next we have the "I have no idea what the heck I'm doing" cloth. I think it turned out ok-ish. I didn't block it very well for the picture, did I now?
And lastly, I like ribbon. It makes things look fancy.


So patterns real quick like. The first heart ones were so simple. I based my pattern off of THIS ONE and THIS ONE.

Cast on 4. Increase every row after the 3rd stitch until you have 40 stitches. You can YO or M1 or whatever. I m1 by knitting into the front and then the back of the 4th stitch. When you have 40 sts, place 20 on a stitch holder (or keep them on the cable, but don't knit them!) Then decrease every row after the 3rd stitch. Again use any decrease method you prefer. I k2tog.

The one heart is a simple garter stitch, so just knit the whole way, increasing and decreasing as desired.

The second one is a garter border with a stockinette center.

The square one is pretty simple too.

Cast on 41 sts.

Rows 1-4: K1, *P1, K1, repeat from * to end.

Row 5: k1, p1, k1, p1, PM (place marker) K33, PM, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 6: k1, p1, k1, p16, k3, p16, k1, p1, k1
Row 7 and all odd rows: (k1, p1 2x) k33, (p1, k1 2x)
Row 9: k1, p1, k1, p15, k5, p15, k1, p1, k1
Row 11: k1, p1, k1, p14, k7, p14, k1, p1, k1
Row 13: k1, p1, k1, p13, k9, p13, k1, p1, k1
Row 15: k1, p1, k1, p12, k11, p12, k1, p1, k1
Row 17: k1, p1, k1, p11, k13, p11, k1, p1, k1
Row 19: k1, p1, k1, p10, k15, p10, k1, p1, k1
Row 21: k1, p1, k1, p9, k17, p9, k1, p1, k1
Row 23: k1, p1, k1, p8, k19, p8, k1, p1, k1
Row 25: k1, p1, k1, p7, k21, p7, k1, p1, k1
Row 27: k1, p1, k1, p6, k23, p6, k1, p1, k1
Row 29: k1, p1, k1, p5, k25, p5, k1, p1, k1
Row 31: k1, p1, k1, p4, k27, p4, k1, p1, k1
Row 33: k1, p1, k1, p3, k29, p3, k1, p1, k1
Row 35: k1, p1, k1, p3, k14, p1, k14, p3, k1, p1, k1
Row 37: k1, p1, k1, p4, k12, p3, k12, p4, k1, p1, k1
Row 39: k1, p1, k1, p5, k11, p3, k11, p5, k1, p1, k1
Row 41: k1, p1, k1, p6, k9, p5, k9, p6, k1, p1, k1
Row 43: k1, p1, k1, p7, k7, p7, k7, p7, k1, p1, k1
Row 45: k1, p1, k1, p8, k5, p9, k5, p8, k1, p1, k1
Row 47: k1, p1, k1, p35, k1, p1, k1
Row 48-51: k1, *p1, k1, repeat from * to end.



All my patterns are free, but if you love 'em, you can always send your appreciation. =)

Or consider donating to The Alzheimer's Association.

Blossom Dress

Working on this really cute dress called "Blossom".

I'm really hoping it turns out. I've never knitted a dress before. Actually, I've never knitted any clothing item.

I'm using boucle yarn. This really pretty turquoise blue with black.

Here are some pictures of the dress in progress. When I'm finished (if I have enough yarn to actually finish) I will post a picture or two of it. Update: I ran out of yarn. Just like I thought I would. I did buy new yarn so that I could try again. Hope I bought enough this time around!

Dress in progress (what really looks like a big mess as of right now):

Close-up of the colors/yarn texture:


Also, if you're bored or curious or need friends, you can check out my ravelry page here.

Ezra's Blanket

As of February 8, 2011, you can now view and download the pattern from google. Click here for the pattern.


I'll post pictures when it's finished. But here is the pattern. Just gotta say...I love this blanket.

Yarn choice: Bamboospun, color brown I used about 3.5 skeins or just over 500 yards.
Needles: US 11
Gauge: Who cares?
Finished size: 38" x 38"


Cast on 4 stitches.
Row 1: K1, P1, K1, P1
Row 2: K1, P1, K1, YO, K1
Row 3: K1, P1, K1, YO, K1, P1
Row 4: K1, P1, K1, YO, K1, P1, K1
Row 5: K1, P1, K1, YO, K1, K1, P1, K1
Row 6: K1, P1, K1, YO, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1

So then from there, work seed stitch (K1, P1, K1) on the first 3 and last 3 stitches of each row. Yarn over once every row after the third stitch, then start with a knit stitch.

So row 7 would look like this:
Seed stitch 3, YO, K1, P1, K1, seed stitch 3

Basically, your middle section is a cross between a seed stitch and a moss stitch. The first and last 3 stitches are the border, so make sure you end with K1, P1, K1 or your one side will end up looking funny and won't match the other side. You are going to always start the middle section with a knit stitch. The middle section will end on a knit on the odd rows.

You can see how the pattern from the edge is different from the middle section here.


Continue to increase until blanket is as big as you want or you've worked half your yarn stash. Then work 2 rows without increasing in the pattern.

Then start to decrease like this:

Seed stitch first 3, YO, P2tog, K2tog, *P1, K1 (repeat from * to last 3 stitches), seed stitch last 3.

Bind off when you are left with 4 stitches.


Please ask questions if this isn't clear! =)


All my patterns are free, but if you love 'em, you can always send your appreciation. =)

Or consider donating to The Alzheimer's Association.

10 reasons I won't be vaxing.

This is just a few reasons. My reasoning for not vaxing is not limited to this information, it's just a few reasons.

1. There is virtually no science to support the safety of vaccine injections on your long-term health or the health of your children. Follow-up studies last on average about two weeks, and look only for glaring injuries and illnesses.

2. The CDC and any doctor/nurse or layman will tell you that vaccines do not cause autism or autism spectrum disorders, but the truth is, they don't have science to back them up. Out of hundreds of ingredients and 35 vaccines, only about 5 ingredients in 3 vaccines have actually been tested.

3. Mercury, once common in many vaccines, has been eliminated (for the most part) and is now often replaced with Aluminum. Alzheimer's patients have been found to have high concentrations of Aluminum.

4. Just a few ingredients used for vaccinations include: ethylene glycol (antifreeze), formaldehyde, phenol (carbolic acid) and even antibiotics like Neomycin and streptomycin.

5. Injecting organisms into your body to provoke immunity is contrary to nature, and vaccination carries enormous potential to do serious damage to your health.

6. VAERS (Vaccine Adverse Event Reporting System) along with the CDC and FDA openly admit that only a small percentage of adverse events/reactions are reported to VAERS. It is assumed that only about 1/10th are actually reported. Meaning, for every report filed with VAERS, there are about 9 other patients with the same reaction who did not report to VAERS.

7. The data linking the Polio vaccination with HIV/AIDS is overwhelming and difficult to ignore.

8. The only cases of Polio in the USA since the 70's have been caused by the Polio vaccine. No natural cases of Polio have been reported or found since the 70's.

9. The Hep B vaccine is routinely given to babies within the first 2 weeks of life. However, the age group most likely to contract Hep B is between the ages of 20-35. The people in this age bracket that are most likely to contract Hep B are intravenous drug users, sexually promiscuous, and homosexual. Medical personnel and those who work in prisons/jail are also at a higher risk, but at less risk than the former.

10. The Chicken Pox Vaccine (Varicella) was created out of convenience. Truth is, the chicken pox is not a dangerous disease for children. The chicken pox (or shingles) is very dangerous in the elderly. Testing on how long the vaccine lasts has not been done. There is no knowing if, when or how much of a booster people will need.